Murray & David's Northern Frontier Conquest: Day 3

Day 3: Harlow Hill- Chollaford

Weather: Sunny

Distance Walked: 12 miles

New Beers Tasted: 3

Cross Section of construction of Hadrian's Wall

A stunningly beautiful day dawned on Harlow Hill and it was time to breakfast. One of my luxuries was to carry a small cafetiere. I mean, what difference will a small cafetiere make to a 20kg pack?!  Fortified with porridge and coffee it was time to strike camp and head out along the wall again. Except for now there still wasn't much wall. What we did have was some fine examples of the mound and ditch which made up the Vallum- although there wouldn't have been trees growing in them in Roman times! By mid morning we had reached passport stamp No.2 outside the Robin Hood [too early for beer, even for me!]. Heads down and a few hours more walking, however there were further outstanding examples of the earthworks that made up the frontier defenses- it's not all about the Wall!

Vallum on Down Hill

By early afternoon, over a day and half of walking with a full 20kg pack had started to take it's toll, so it was with grateful eyes [and bellies] that the Errington Arms at The Portgate came into view. A well earned rest and  much refueling and re-hydration was needed.

Errington Arms

A reasonable value set lunch menu was on offer, with the veggie option looking tasty. I have to say that the vegetarian moussaka really was delicious. I had a thirst, so a few pints were required.  Following a good rest and a decent sampling of the Shuggy Boat Blonde , the afternoon stretch seemed less arduous [funny that!] A few teasing remnants of the Northern Frontier were visible, but you needed to use the full range of your imagination. Still, the walking was easy underfoot, even if the packs were getting heavy. Maybe I should have packed less?!

St Oswold in Lee

The landscape was  opening up,  we were walking in some nice countryside, there was some interesting local history to investigate and the sun was shining. Not all bad! One of the many small detours we made was to St Oswolds church. This little church is built on a small hill overlooking the convergence of 3 ancient route-ways and is built largely of recycled stone from Hadrian's Wall. Recycling of the wall was common in many areas and another reason there is not much left in many lowland places!  This little church is also on the site of one of the earliest 'Christian' Battles in England, when Oswald,  the Christian King of Northumbria took on [and beat] the 'Heathen' King of the British Tribes, Cadwallon in the Battle of Heavenfield in AD635.

Broad Wall becomes Narrow Wall at Planetrees

Nearing the end of our second full day walking , remnants of the wall started to become more numerous and more spectacular. At Planetrees we are presented with our largest section to date [I will be saying that a lot over the next 2 days!] , but what is significant about this section is that the base is significantly larger than the actual wall. For some reason [ time/money/energy/resources/mutiny ? ] the decision was made after the foundation had been built to make the wall less thick and a 10ft thick Wall became an 8ft Wall......

Turret 26b,  [top] Chester Bridge Abutments [centre]  Bath House of Chester Fort on opposite bank [above],
Chollaford

......and so we traipsed into Chollaford on the North Tyne, weary but excited, as the promised Roman Ruins were now coming thick and fast. There was also the most spectacular sunset and reflection of sunset in the placid waters of the North Tyne. Time to pitch tent and eat. Another little campsite, Riverside Tea Rooms & Camping, was just over the bridge and on the route of the walk.  Unfortunately the closest hostelry was the George Hotel , which was , unknown to us at the time, a rather posh establishment-and didn't serve bar meals or snacks. Good job we had a good lunch earlier, as there was nothing else around that was open and  there was no way we could afford to eat there -even if they had let us! We were begrudgingly allowed into the bar to have a drink, but I nearly had to mortgage my tent to afford even a drink and packet of crisps. Oh well. There was always porridge for breakfast. So in the bar we sat, in our walking boots, surrounded by rich pensioners, looking slightly out of place to say the least and had a few games of chess. David is very kindly attempting to bestow some of his substantial knowledge of the truly beautiful game upon me. Hard work, but he is very patient. To use a football analogy, bit like a Premier League [David] side taking on a non league [Me] side!

Sunset over North Tyne
Chollaford

Sunset over NortTyne,
Chollaford

Murray & David's Northern Frontier Conquest: Day 2

Day 2: Newcastle- Harlow Hill

Weather: Sunny

Distance Walked: 13.4

Different Beers Tasted: 2

After a quality nights sleep, it was down to the all-you -can -eat buffet breakfast. Fruit, yoghurt, 2 cooked breakfasts and 3 cups Americano with an extra espresso set me up for the day.Although I did start twitching after the 3rd cup! Before we could start our Northern Conquest, we needed camping gas. The meanies at the airline wouldn't let us take pressurised gas canisters & flammable meths on the plane, so we needed to find some in Newcastle before we set off [n.b; we did know this before hand, so didn't cause a terrorist scare at the airport!]. A quick stomp around the city centre and we found a military surplice store nearby. Mission accomplished. David had chosen this Premier Inn as it was right on the trail, so as soon as we got back, we strapped on our packs, stepped out the door and started walking.

Much like the previous day, the riverside path took us through a post industrial landscape, but unlike the previous day, it felt safer as it had been re-developed in parts and you could get a sense of the once industrial might of the North East. Roman ruins were not in evidence, but we did walk along the famous Scotswood Road, home to the historical Blaydon Races that are immortalised in a Geordie folk song [and often now sung at St James Park].  Within a few hours though we were in the Tyne River Country Park, our first real view of a green open space so far. It was also the site of a Battle of Newburn in 1640, in which the Scots defeated the English and went on to occupy Newcastle.

The Swan

A pleasant stroll along the Tyne, a brutal climb up to Heddon-on-the - Wall and we were not only at the site of a good pub, but also the first real length of Hadrian's Wall we had seen yet. First things first, we needed feeding and watering. The Swan at Heddon was a lovely pub with a good range of beers from Wylam Brewery- this time with identifiable pump badges! The only gripe I have is that they didn't do a veggie option on the Carvery. 

Heddon on the Wall
with David Twine

But we were really here for the wall [weren't we?!] So after refuelling we thought we better have a look. As far as walls go, this bit was quite exciting, being so old and that, and especially as it was our first glimpse of what was to come. Actually, to be honest, I was really quite excited about this- our first piece of Roman wall. Maybe if the English had taken more care of it they wouldn't have lost the Battle of Newburn! After posing for a few photo's, it was time to strike out to Harlow Hill.

One of the reasons there isn't much to see of this once grand frontier wall in some places is  due to the fact a road has been built on top of it. It is also why a lot of today's walk has been beside a road. This feature can be seen really clearly in the two photo's from an archaeological excavation on the road near Harlow Hill. The Military Road [as it is called] is now the B6528 and was initially built in the early 1700's to transport troops to the borders to quell the Jacobite Rebellion. Apparently the Roman engineering made for a good foundation.  It wasn't long after this that we reached the campsite at Harlow Hill. First full day of walking complete. Yay!

Military Road 

with excavations on the left

Hadrian's Wall under Military Road.
Exposed by recent excavation

Murray & David's Northern Frontier Conquest: Day 1

Hadrian's Wall

2nd - 10th September 2013

We came; We saw; We walked; We drank beer!

Day 1; Exeter - Newcastle upon Tyne

Weather; Sunny

Distance covered: 5 mile run 
Different beers tasted: 2

After years of mulling over a walk along Hadrian's Wall , months of actual planning and a few days of packing, it was time to set off to the airport with David Twine [kindly driven by Penny Twine]. Excitement turned to panic a few minutes into the journey when I realised I had forgotten  my walking boots. Fairly important piece of equipment on a walking holiday, I think you will agree! Panic over, the remainder of the drive to Exeter was fairly uneventful. Flight to Newcastle was boarded on time, but delayed slightly as men in hi-viz jackets and armed with WD-40, gaffer tape and Swiss Army knifes fixed a small engineering problem. Soon on our way, the small Fly-be twin propeller plane seemed to take off almost vertically [I'm used to more genteel take offs of larger jets] and it took several minutes for my stomach to catch up with the rest of my body. Our journey had begun. How exciting. 

Segedunum Fort, Wallsend

It was barely worth getting the guide books out before we were prepared for landing, with a swoop over Tynemouth before heading back over to Newcastle in another stomach churning maneouver . The fast, efficient  and incredibly cheap [£4.40 for Adult DaySaver ticket] Metro sped us into Newcastle city centre and we soon settled in to our swish, river side Premier Inn room. No time to enjoy the views of the Tyne and the gentrification of the quayside in the centre, as we needed to get to Wallsend and Segedunum Roman Fort for our first Roman experience. Time was running out and we didn't want to get behind schedule on our first day. The delayed flight meant we had to rush this museum, 'doing it' in under an hour before closing, but we did get our first stamp on our Hadrian's Wall Passport. The journey had begun!

King Edward's Bay,
Tynemouth

Now it was time to get off to the seaside. We had decided that as we were so close to the coast, we would make our walk a 'coast to coast', as well as Hadrian's Wall.  Neither of us had been to Tynemouth and so didn't have any preconceptions - we were very pleasantly surprised with what we found. A well kept seaside town with a thriving cafe/ bar culture and sandy beaches. After a sedate paddle on the West Coast, on a hot sunny day, after a long journey, there was really only one sensible thing to do - go to the pub. Of all the pubs and bars on Front Street we walked into one that was not the most salubrious, The Salutation- but when we found out Monday's was £2 pint, we stayed. Actually, it wasn't too bad and the beer was nice, local golden ale from Wylam Brewery. Not sure which one as the pump badge was hand written and the bartender didn't know- but it looked and tasted OK! 

A Sign!

Suitably refreshed by the ale, a paddle in North Sea and the fresh sea air in our lungs, we set off back to Wallsend to start the walk proper;except David had had the bright idea of running this section. Out of our day packs came the running gear, and off we went. The first part of the Hadrian's Walk National Trail along the not very Roman post industrial landscape of the River Tyne, Newcastle was completed in full BATs colours. 

BAT on the Tyne

The run was just what was needed after the travelling, it was a good idea by David, as there was zero Roman stuff to see.  In fact, apart from the decaying riverside remnants, of a once industrialised landscape, and groups of kids, being, well, kids, there was little reason to hang around. There have been reports of these youths harassing walkers and whilst I'm not easily scared- I was quite glad I was running! If anyone else is thinking of doing Hadrian's Walk, unless you are a purist, there is no reason to walk the section from Wallsend- Newcastle. There is a perfectly good Metro system.

Four miles down; 80 miles to go.

Showered and invigorated after the run, we hit the town. We settled on that traditional (!) Geordie fare of pie&liquor at the The Red House. It was just around the corner from the hotel, was in an old building, had some tasty veggie pies and served a fine selection of ales. I was particularly taken with the Grin 'n' Bare it from the Anarchy Brewery.

Tuesday was a particularly special day as it was our first full day of walking, so an early night was called for.

Get Out Moor!: August Bank Holiday Week EndSo what did you do?He...

Get Out Moor!: August Bank Holiday Week EndSo what did you do?
He...: August Bank Holiday Week End So what did you do? Hello again. So what have you all been up to this August Bank Holiday? Down 'e...

August Bank Holiday Week End

So what did you do?

Hello again. So what have you all been up to this August Bank Holiday? Down 'ere in Devon we have been basking in glorious sunshine. And it's been lovely. To kick off the week end,  I took my trusty road bike out for a little spin. Short sharp 40km up and over Dartmoor [Tavistock, Pork Hill, Merrivale, Princetown] and then across the top of the moor and the lovely fast descent to Dousland , Yelverton and Buckland, before a delightful 20% gradient up Denham Bridge back home. Thoroughly enjoyed this ride. It was beautifully clear with exceptional visibility. Dartmoor really is a special place and only 30mns cycle from home. How lucky I am to live here. 

Georgie

Georgie was waiting for me when  I got back, so she came out for a little run in the woods.  She's not doing too badly in her transition from sprinter to long distance runner. Bit like up-training Usain Bolt to Mo Farah!

Well earned
Saturday treat

My dear wife, Orla was out selling her wares at a vintage craft fayre across the border in Cornwall, so I set about my chores and cooking dinner before settling down in the garden to a well earned beer. 

River Meavy

Sunday was a little more sedate. A few bargains were to be had at car boot sales, prior to a genteel walk along the banks of the river Meavy with Orla & Georgie. As it so happened, there was also a 

Orla & Georgie on
banks of Meavy

Real Ale & Cider festival at the Royal Oak. So it would have been rude not to sample a cider before returning home, don't you think?! But not returning home empty handed, as a take out was available, so cheeky 4 pint flagon of "Ty Gwynig" Welsh Cider [Monmouth / Medium Dry / 7%] was bought. Sunday afternoon was spent sitting in the garden, reading the paper, sipping cider and listening to the traditional summer sounds of leather upon willow on TMS [that's cricket if you don't know- and we beat the Aussies 3-0 in the series to retain the Ashes. Could have been 4-0 but for  bad umpiring ;-) ]

Bank Holiday Monday brought more sun and a race was to be run. The Peter Tavy Plod. A stunning 7km moorland run. There was no respite from the heat, even on the moor. BATs were out in force

BATs psyching themselves
up for the run ahead

 A lovely run. I do so love hill starts that last for 3km. No really, I do. Great weather for sunbathing- but we were running vertically up and then over the moors from Peter Tavy. The run was hot, hard and sweaty. Which meant hydration was required [neigh, essential!] to replace lost fluids. Luckily there is a rather nice pub in the village which sells a selection of outstanding Ales.

That's me in the hat!
[Becky sneaks in on the left,
with Julian & somerset friend!]

"Summa That" from Branscombe seemed to go down well, as did the the "Ideal Pale Ale" from Tavy. 

And yes, there really was a giraffe in the beer garden.

Giraffe in beer garden


All in all, not a bad bank holiday. In fact, it was a rather splendid bank holiday. Here's to hoping you all had a great time as well.

Next up- Hadrian's Wall Walk. Newcastle - Bowness. Wonder what beers they have up North?

Getting Out Moor: Not just about racing!

Sharp Tor, above Dartmeet, Dartmoor.

Getting Out Moor is more than just competing and racing in various events [although I do enjoy that!]; it is also about, well, just getting out more! Get out and enjoy the local environment; Walk, cycle or run; on road, off road; amble, jog, go slow, go fast; go alone, go with a partner, go with the dog, go with friends, join a running/cycling/rambling club; go for a few hours, go all day, camp all week end; JUST GO!

Denham Woods, Tavy Valley

I am exceptionally lucky in that I live in the Bere Peninsula, sandwiched between the rivers Tavy and Tamar and only 7 miles from Dartmoor National Park. Countryside is on my door step. Maybe you have to go a short distance to get into the countryside- after all, one of the aims of the national parks was to provide access to the countryside for all. May be you can walk or cycle into the countryside. Bus, train or even car. Even in towns and cities there are parks,  nature trails, cycle tracks, often a river, occasionally a wood or forest nearby, sometimes a coast and the country is criss-crossed with footpaths. Fresh air lifts the soul and being outside is fun. It helps keep me relatively sane anyway.

There doesn't need to be a purpose, a plan or a route- although there is nothing wrong with planing a route. (anyone who has seen 127 Hours will know the importance of letting someone know where you are going!). Explore the streets, highways, byways, bridle-paths, cycle paths and footpaths of your local area. Buy a map or a city A-Z and off you go. Travel as light or heavy as you see fit. Take a packed lunch or money for lunch in a pub or cafe. Or take nothing at all! (in very remote places this policy isn't advisable-nature is beautiful but can be very unforgiving). Go on a round trip from home. Stay in a B&B. Go camping. We (wife, dog & I) recently took advantage of the lovely weather and stayed at this lovely campsite on south Cornish coast. Ideal. Never been there before, just packed up the car and went. Lovely week -end.

Highertown Farm Campsite

Stone Circle
Nr Hound Tor, Dartmoor

Whether your thing is nature, archaeology, history, geography, ancient buildings, sports, being active or just different and interesting  pubs- get out and explore! Find out what is out and about. You may be surprised at what you find about your local area.

Admittedly, we are spoilt for choice here in Devon as we pretty much have the lot. We have two coastlines and two moors: Exmoor & Dartmoor. On Dartmoor alone [apart from the natural beauty] there is ancient and industrial archaeology and history galore [worth a blog in it's right, coming soon!], trails for running, walking and cycling and excellent white water paddling.

Not only is there breathtaking and beautiful countryside in the UK- but there are also some rather splendid public houses to refresh oneself after an exhausting day. Locally, we are not just blessed with fine countryside, but there are many fine hostelries to choose from. Some of my favourites include   The Olde Plough , Peter Tavy Inn, Castle Inn , Royal Oak , Plume of Feathers , Who'd Have Thought It , and the Warren House Inn . Obviously, this not an exhaustive list of local pubs, just a few that have been visited over the past  years. They all serve good food and good beer- and all welcome well behaved dogs.

BATs at Olde Plough, post run

So, wherever you go, whatever you do, have fun, be safe and drink responsibly!

Georgie- The Story So Far

Georgie was welcomed into our household in August 2011- and she's been in charge ever since! Georgie is a retired racing greyhound and was taking retirement in her stride. She took to her bed and didn't want to get off!

We let her rest as we figured she had had a hard life so far. We fulfilled our end of the bargain; nice comfy bed, food, water, security and walks. Except she wasn't keen on walks. We tried, but she was having none of it. Georgie found the outside world to be a scary place. For many months we joked that Georgie was agoraphobic- but that wasn't far from the truth!  It became a standing joke in the village. We gave her time and space, yet persevered. Eventually,she began to enjoy her walks [mostly]. Every so often she would even go out willingly- and enjoy it. So I decided to take Georgie out running- and lo and behold she embraced it.

No one was more surprised than me. During the summer  of 2013 Georgie became my running partner. We don't go far, 5 miles tops usually ,but she did seem to enjoy it. She became a feature of the BATs away runs

 and several times a week we would go out- and aim to go out more. Georgie is, after all, a sprinter, and needs time to build up to be a middle distance runner!

We love Georgie for who she is and her 'odd' ways are rather endearing; but we really do believe she enjoys her runs on the moors. Thirsty as they may be!