Get Out Moor!: Murray & David's Northern Frontier Conquest: Day 2

Day 2: Newcastle- Harlow Hill

Weather: Sunny

Distance Walked: 13.4

Different Beers Tasted: 2

After a quality nights sleep, it was down to the all-you -can -eat buffet breakfast. Fruit, yoghurt, 2 cooked breakfasts and 3 cups Americano with an extra espresso set me up for the day.Although I did start twitching after the 3rd cup! Before we could start our Northern Conquest, we needed camping gas. The meanies at the airline wouldn't let us take pressurised gas canisters & flammable meths on the plane, so we needed to find some in Newcastle before we set off [n.b; we did know this before hand, so didn't cause a terrorist scare at the airport!]. A quick stomp around the city centre and we found a military surplice store nearby. Mission accomplished. David had chosen this Premier Inn as it was right on the trail, so as soon as we got back, we strapped on our packs, stepped out the door and started walking.

Much like the previous day, the riverside path took us through a post industrial landscape, but unlike the previous day, it felt safer as it had been re-developed in parts and you could get a sense of the once industrial might of the North East. Roman ruins were not in evidence, but we did walk along the famous Scotswood Road, home to the historical Blaydon Races that are immortalised in a Geordie folk song [and often now sung at St James Park]. Within a few hours though we were in the Tyne River Country Park, our first real view of a green open space so far. It was also the site of a Battle of Newburn in 1640, in which the Scots defeated the English and went on to occupy Newcastle.

The Swan

A pleasant stroll along the Tyne, a brutal climb up to Heddon-on-the - Wall and we were not only at the site of a good pub, but also the first real length of Hadrian's Wall we had seen yet. First things first, we needed feeding and watering. The Swan at Heddon was a lovely pub with a good range of beers from Wylam Brewery- this time with identifiable pump badges! The only gripe I have is that they didn't do a veggie option on the Carvery.

Heddon on the Wall
with David Twine

But we were really here for the wall [weren't we?!] So after refuelling we thought we better have a look. As far as walls go, this bit was quite exciting, being so old and that, and especially as it was our first glimpse of what was to come. Actually, to be honest, I was really quite excited about this- our first piece of Roman wall. Maybe if the English had taken more care of it they wouldn't have lost the Battle of Newburn! After posing for a few photo's, it was time to strike out to Harlow Hill.

One of the reasons there isn't much to see of this once grand frontier wall in some places is due to the fact a road has been built on top of it. It is also why a lot of today's walk has been beside a road. This feature can be seen really clearly in the two photo's from an archaeological excavation on the road near Harlow Hill. The Military Road [as it is called] is now the B6528 and was initially built in the early 1700's to transport troops to the borders to quell the Jacobite Rebellion. Apparently the Roman engineering made for a good foundation. It wasn't long after this that we reached the campsite at Harlow Hill. First full day of walking complete. Yay!