Murray & David's Northern Frontier Conquest: Day 1

Hadrian's Wall

2nd - 10th September 2013

We came; We saw; We walked; We drank beer!

Day 1; Exeter - Newcastle upon Tyne

Weather; Sunny

Distance covered: 5 mile run 
Different beers tasted: 2

After years of mulling over a walk along Hadrian's Wall , months of actual planning and a few days of packing, it was time to set off to the airport with David Twine [kindly driven by Penny Twine]. Excitement turned to panic a few minutes into the journey when I realised I had forgotten  my walking boots. Fairly important piece of equipment on a walking holiday, I think you will agree! Panic over, the remainder of the drive to Exeter was fairly uneventful. Flight to Newcastle was boarded on time, but delayed slightly as men in hi-viz jackets and armed with WD-40, gaffer tape and Swiss Army knifes fixed a small engineering problem. Soon on our way, the small Fly-be twin propeller plane seemed to take off almost vertically [I'm used to more genteel take offs of larger jets] and it took several minutes for my stomach to catch up with the rest of my body. Our journey had begun. How exciting. 

Segedunum Fort, Wallsend

It was barely worth getting the guide books out before we were prepared for landing, with a swoop over Tynemouth before heading back over to Newcastle in another stomach churning maneouver . The fast, efficient  and incredibly cheap [£4.40 for Adult DaySaver ticket] Metro sped us into Newcastle city centre and we soon settled in to our swish, river side Premier Inn room. No time to enjoy the views of the Tyne and the gentrification of the quayside in the centre, as we needed to get to Wallsend and Segedunum Roman Fort for our first Roman experience. Time was running out and we didn't want to get behind schedule on our first day. The delayed flight meant we had to rush this museum, 'doing it' in under an hour before closing, but we did get our first stamp on our Hadrian's Wall Passport. The journey had begun!

King Edward's Bay,
Tynemouth

Now it was time to get off to the seaside. We had decided that as we were so close to the coast, we would make our walk a 'coast to coast', as well as Hadrian's Wall.  Neither of us had been to Tynemouth and so didn't have any preconceptions - we were very pleasantly surprised with what we found. A well kept seaside town with a thriving cafe/ bar culture and sandy beaches. After a sedate paddle on the West Coast, on a hot sunny day, after a long journey, there was really only one sensible thing to do - go to the pub. Of all the pubs and bars on Front Street we walked into one that was not the most salubrious, The Salutation- but when we found out Monday's was £2 pint, we stayed. Actually, it wasn't too bad and the beer was nice, local golden ale from Wylam Brewery. Not sure which one as the pump badge was hand written and the bartender didn't know- but it looked and tasted OK! 

A Sign!

Suitably refreshed by the ale, a paddle in North Sea and the fresh sea air in our lungs, we set off back to Wallsend to start the walk proper;except David had had the bright idea of running this section. Out of our day packs came the running gear, and off we went. The first part of the Hadrian's Walk National Trail along the not very Roman post industrial landscape of the River Tyne, Newcastle was completed in full BATs colours. 

BAT on the Tyne

The run was just what was needed after the travelling, it was a good idea by David, as there was zero Roman stuff to see.  In fact, apart from the decaying riverside remnants, of a once industrialised landscape, and groups of kids, being, well, kids, there was little reason to hang around. There have been reports of these youths harassing walkers and whilst I'm not easily scared- I was quite glad I was running! If anyone else is thinking of doing Hadrian's Walk, unless you are a purist, there is no reason to walk the section from Wallsend- Newcastle. There is a perfectly good Metro system.

Four miles down; 80 miles to go.

Showered and invigorated after the run, we hit the town. We settled on that traditional (!) Geordie fare of pie&liquor at the The Red House. It was just around the corner from the hotel, was in an old building, had some tasty veggie pies and served a fine selection of ales. I was particularly taken with the Grin 'n' Bare it from the Anarchy Brewery.

Tuesday was a particularly special day as it was our first full day of walking, so an early night was called for.