New Beers Sampled: 1
 |
| Vindolanda |
Daybreak on day 5 didn't so much break on a crest of golden sunshine as we had been used to, but was washed in; the predicted rain had arrived. But, unlike the Tories, we had a Plan B. Or rather, David had organised a Plan B. Whilst I has half asleep in the pub, David was running around being very organised sorting out our day. Thank goodness for David. The forecast had been grim , and it was grim, but David had not only booked us into the bunk house at Slack House Farm, but also planned to have our luggage sent on to the bunkhouse at Slack House Farm. There are several services which do this along Hadrian't Wall and are very useful at times such as this. So we walked today with no packs and had a guaranteed dry place to stay and dry packs when we got there. Thank-you David.
 |
Looking towards fort
from civilian village |
 |
Site of civilian village
Vindolanada |
This meant we had time to spend a few hours this morning at
Vindolanda Fort , which was one of the highlights of the trip.
Hadrian's Wall Bus 'AD122' handily stopped at the YHA and went the short distance to Vindolanda. The bus arrives a few minutes before opening times, and today the very kind staff took pity on us and let us in early.
This fort spans many centuries and has several incarnations , both wood, earth and stone built, literally on top of each other over the centuries. The museum , unlike the weather, was exceptional. Every artifact on display was uncovered on site- and there are many thousands of them- and they offer a unique insight into daily life on a frontier town. From a vast collection of leather footwear [over 4,000!], to pots, pans, coins, armour, weapons, beauty products, clothing and the 'piece de resistance' being the recently uncovered haul of writing tablets. These are an eclectic mix of letters & postcards written in ink on wood blocks, detailing daily life in a frontier settlement. Ordinary tales of invitations to parties, concerned parents, requests for clean underwear and demands for more beer to sent out to troops on patrols! Not much has changed in 2,000years really...
After a relaxing and, mostly, dry morning in the fort and museum, it was time to get walking again, so bus AD122 back to the YHA and picking up of the trail where we left off yesterday. It was wet, but visibility was OK and walking without a pack was a doddle!
 |
Looking East towards Winshields Crags
|
We were making good time, no pain in shoulders or back and we could even pose happily for photo's .
 |
| Me! Near Caw Gap [East View] |
 |
| Above Bogle Hole |
 |
| Milecastle 42 |
 |
Cawfields Quarry
Where once there stood a wall |
 |
Keeping Lookout
Milecastle 44b |
As was the case yesterday, today offered up classic, exceptional, if wet, views of Hadrian's Wall. Mile upon mile of wall of sections of wall and its turrets and milecastles'. Roman imperial authority stamped across the landscape, disrupting trading routes [as at milecastele 42 where the Roman's decided the 'natural route' where there is now a gate, would need to go uphill to their fort] which most likely pissed off the locals and onto myth and legend such as at Bogle Hole [which means 'goblins hollow', its name betraying local superstition about the little folk.] Unfortunately, even in the high crags, in places the wall has gone completely, thanks to 19th and early 20th Century quarrying. Actually, as can be seen from the photo of Cawfields Quarry, not much remains of the crags either! Blasted apart and carried off for building material. Progress. But then again, Hadrian's Wall is a symbol of an imperial conquering army and was no doubt hatted as a symbol of oppression. No wonder it's gone in places. In fact, it's a wonder there is anything left all. Mussings' over 'twas time to continue our mission for the day, which was to get to Birdoswald via pub. We were beginning to get a little damp, Gortex or not , this northern rain was persistent. My feet were wet now as well. Pah. Blimmin' Romans! And then we saw it. A cafe at Walltown Quarry. Hot tea and cake. Mmmmm. We also came across some fellow travelers, of the feathery kind, also wet and weary, also seeking shelter from the storm.
 |
Interesting section of wall,
built below the natural high ground
'Heathen lands ' are on the left and
'Conquered Land' is on right |
 |
| Shelter from the storm |
 |
| No, you can't come in to my field. |
Whilst we enjoyed a well earned and
well timed cuppa, our feathery friends [house martins?] huddled together for warmth. It was time for food and beer. The packed lunch from the YHA was all gone. The cake wouldn't fill me up for long. I was hungry. And damp. Pub beckoned There was, however, the small matter of getting there. This cow was not going to let David [nor me!] get over the stile. It's calf was in that field and we weren't allowed in; right of way or not. So we had to make a slight detour. Cow is bigger- and never, ever, get between a mother and it's child. Unless you want trouble, which we didn't. Soon, and without further incident, the bright lights of Gilsand came into view, and more particularly the lights of the Samson Inn and a pint of Wylam Angel.
 |
| Wylam Angel |
Several pints actually, as it kept out the cold. Drying out and warming up in the inn were also a few other 'groups' of walkers we had come across over the past few days, including our new Dutch friends who very kindly bought us a pint. The menu of the Sampson also looked good. A puye lentil and root vegetable stew with roast squash, deep fried camembert and toast. Divine.
It was very, very tempting to stay in the in, as the wood burner was on, my tummy was full and the beer and company were equally as pleasant. However we still had over a mile to walk until we reached Birdoswald, it was still raining and it was getting dark. Head torches ready, we braved the wet once more.
 |
Looking down towards bridge abutment
nr Willowford Farm
|
Funnily enough, the rain didn't seem so bad after a few pints! There was some interesting sections of wall to view along the way, which we duly did and by the time we got to Birdoswald, we needed our torches. Our bed for the night beckoned. It was dark. Only another half mile until we reached
Slack House Farm . We were settled in to the camping barn by Dianne Slack who is one of life's dynamo's. A truly inspirational and interesting woman. Passionate about food, where it comes from, its trace-ability, the sustainability of food sources and power sources, helping people set up local sustainable businesses.
 |
| Slack House Farm |
 |
| Bunkhouse at Slack House Farm |
Dianne and her husband also run a cafe, tend to an organic dairy herd and make the one of the tastiest cheeses I have ever had- and I like my cheese, so that is high praise indeed. The bed was comfy as well and the wood burner was very welcome. After a few games of chess, we slept well that night. Warm and dry at Slack House Farm.
No comments:
Post a Comment