Day 5: Persistent Precipitation!

Day 5: Twice Brewed - Birdoswald

Weather: Persistent  Precipitation

Distance Walked: 10 miles

New Beers Sampled: 1

Vindolanda

Daybreak on day 5 didn't so much break on a crest of golden sunshine as we had been used to, but was washed in; the predicted rain had arrived. But, unlike the Tories, we had a Plan B. Or rather, David had organised a Plan B. Whilst I has half asleep in the pub, David was running around being very organised sorting out our day. Thank goodness for David. The forecast had been grim , and it was grim, but David had not only booked us into the bunk house at Slack House Farm, but also planned to have our luggage sent on to the bunkhouse at Slack House Farm. There are several services which do this along Hadrian't Wall and are very useful at times such as this. So we walked today with no packs and had a guaranteed dry place to stay and dry packs when we got there. Thank-you David.

Looking towards fort
from civilian village

Site of civilian village
Vindolanada

This meant we had time to spend a few hours this morning at Vindolanda Fort , which was one of the highlights of the trip. Hadrian's Wall Bus 'AD122' handily stopped at the YHA and went the short distance to Vindolanda. The bus arrives a few minutes before opening times, and today the very kind staff took pity on us and let us in early.  This fort spans many centuries and has several incarnations , both wood, earth and stone built, literally on top of each other over the centuries. The museum , unlike the weather, was exceptional. Every artifact on display was uncovered on site- and there are many thousands of them- and they offer a unique insight into daily life on a frontier town. From a vast collection of leather footwear [over 4,000!], to pots, pans, coins, armour, weapons, beauty products,  clothing and the 'piece de resistance' being the recently uncovered haul of writing tablets. These are an eclectic mix of letters & postcards written in ink on wood blocks, detailing daily life in a frontier settlement. Ordinary tales of invitations to parties, concerned parents, requests for clean underwear and demands for more beer to sent out to troops on patrols! Not much has changed in 2,000years really...

East Gateway Vindolanda

Vindolanda

After a relaxing and, mostly, dry morning in the fort and museum, it was time to get walking again, so bus AD122 back to the YHA and picking up of the trail where we left off yesterday. It was wet, but visibility was OK  and walking without a pack was a doddle!

Looking East towards Winshields Crags

We were making good time, no pain in shoulders or back and we could even pose happily for photo's .

Me! Near Caw Gap [East View]

Above Bogle Hole

Milecastle 42

Cawfields Quarry
Where once there stood a wall

Keeping Lookout
Milecastle 44b

As was the case yesterday, today offered up classic, exceptional, if wet, views of Hadrian's Wall. Mile upon mile of wall of sections of wall and its turrets and milecastles'. Roman imperial authority stamped across the landscape, disrupting trading routes [as at milecastele 42 where the Roman's decided the 'natural route' where there is now a gate, would need to go uphill to their fort] which most likely pissed off the locals and onto myth and legend such as at Bogle Hole [which means 'goblins hollow', its name betraying local superstition about the little folk.]  Unfortunately, even in the high crags, in places the wall has gone completely, thanks to 19th and early 20th Century quarrying. Actually, as can be seen from the photo of Cawfields Quarry, not much remains of the crags either! Blasted apart  and carried off for building material. Progress. But then again, Hadrian's Wall is a symbol of an imperial conquering army and was no doubt hatted as a symbol of oppression. No wonder it's gone in places. In fact, it's a wonder there is anything left all.  Mussings' over 'twas time to continue our mission for the day, which was to get to Birdoswald via  pub. We were beginning to get a little damp, Gortex or not , this northern rain was persistent. My feet were wet now as well. Pah. Blimmin' Romans! And then we saw it. A cafe at Walltown Quarry. Hot tea and cake. Mmmmm. We also came across some fellow travelers, of the feathery kind, also wet and weary, also seeking shelter from the storm. 

Interesting section of wall,
built below the natural high ground
 'Heathen lands ' are on the left and
'Conquered Land' is on right

Shelter from the storm

No, you can't come in to my field.

Whilst we enjoyed a well earned and well timed cuppa, our feathery friends [house martins?] huddled together for warmth.  It was time for food and beer. The packed lunch from the YHA was all gone. The cake wouldn't fill me up for long. I was hungry. And damp. Pub beckoned  There was, however, the small matter of getting there. This cow was not going to let David [nor me!] get over the stile. It's calf was in that field and we weren't allowed in; right of way or not. So we had to make a slight detour. Cow is bigger- and never, ever, get between a mother and it's child. Unless you want trouble, which we didn't. Soon, and without further incident, the bright lights of Gilsand came into view, and more particularly the lights of the Samson Inn and a pint of Wylam Angel. 

Wylam Angel

Several pints actually, as it kept out the cold. Drying out and warming up in the inn were also a few other 'groups' of walkers we had come across over the past few days, including our new Dutch friends who very kindly bought us a pint.  The menu of the Sampson also looked good. A puye lentil and root vegetable stew with roast squash, deep fried camembert and toast. Divine. 

It was very, very tempting to stay in the in, as the wood burner was on, my tummy was full and the beer and company were equally as pleasant. However we still had over a mile to walk until we reached Birdoswald, it was still raining and it was getting dark. Head torches ready, we braved the wet once more.  

Looking down towards bridge abutment
nr Willowford Farm

Funnily enough, the rain didn't seem so bad after a few pints! There was some interesting sections of wall to view along the way, which we duly did and by the time we got to Birdoswald, we needed our torches. Our bed for the night beckoned. It was dark. Only another half mile until we reached  Slack House Farm . We were settled in to the camping barn by Dianne Slack who is one of life's dynamo's. A truly inspirational and interesting woman. Passionate about food, where it comes from, its trace-ability, the sustainability of food sources and power sources, helping people set up local sustainable businesses.

Slack House Farm

Bunkhouse at Slack House Farm

 Dianne and her husband also run a cafe, tend to an organic dairy herd and make the one of the tastiest cheeses I have ever had- and I like my cheese, so that is high praise indeed. The bed was comfy as well and the wood burner was very welcome. After a few games of chess, we slept well that night. Warm and dry at Slack House Farm.

Murray & David's Northern Frontier Conquest: Day 4

Day 4: Chollaford- Twice Brewed 

Weather: Sunny

Distance Walked: 13 miles

New Beers Sampled: 3

David at the Temple to Mithras

Chesters Fort Information Board!

A new day dawned, and again it was sunny. Rumour on the trail was that the weather was on the turn and that it would rain later in the day and all day Friday. But this morning was hot and sunny, so day 3 of walking began with the collection of our  third stamp on passport outside Chester Roman Fort. We were there before it opened, so missed out on the 'best preserved cavalry fort in Britain'. Oh well, there will be more [and we had planned to visit two over the next days]. Before long we had got to Brocolitia Fort [a grassy bank] and the well preserved Temple to Mithras, which was worth a look around. Both here and along the way we kept bumping into fellow walkers from all nationalities, with an American, and a Dutch couple [who we later found to be Church of England Priests!] This was one of the delights of the walk- swapping tales with fellow travelers. Everyone has a tale to tell, and this is mine.

Lunch!
Sewingshields Crag. Milecastle 35

The scenery really was changing now and we were climbing up onto the Crags- Sewingshields Crag to be exact. Very dramatic escarpments caused by volcanic action some 295 million years ago - that's even before the Romans! Dramatic and picturesque they may be, but hard work to walk up even for fine athletes (!) like David and myself. We were now immersed in the high moorlands of the Northumberland National Park and the range of Roman ruins and  natural panoramas were breathtaking, quite literally at times. It was time for lunch, so we found the extensive ruins of  Milecastle 35 and I cooked up a boil in the bag vegetarian curry. Very tasty it was too. I wonder if the Romans had boil in the bag curries? Must check that out. Refreshed and raring to go, we set off along Sewingshields Crag, down into Kings Wicket / Busy Gap, up again onto Kennel Crags and finally onto to the Roman Fort of Vercovicium [AKA Housesteads].

View West from Kennel Crag

Me & David,
View back [East] to Kennel & Sewingshields Crag

Leading up to Housestead

Inside Housesteads
Looking East

Garrison Latrines Roman Style
There were wooden benches
along the walls.

Housesteads was the first-and best preserved- major fort ruins we had stopped at since leaving Newcastle. Perched high up on a Crag, it commanded superb views. It didn't take much imagination to see why Hadrian chose such sites to build major forts such as Housestead. For many of the 800 troops stationed there, it was probably a wild and bleak place, and really did feel like the Northern Frontier of the Roman Empire- the end of the earth. Why not a posting to Italy, Spain, North Africa - anywhere  except here! Today it was hot, sunny and stunningly beautiful, but again, it doesn't take much imagination to picture this place in a northern winter. Brrrrr.  Unless. of course, you were a high ranking officer, who unsurprisingly had underfloor heating all year around. Must have felt just like home [almost!]. But at least there were well designed and functional latrines.

Crag Lough from top of Highshields Crag
Looking East

Looking West down to Sycamore Gap
What was Robbin Hood doing this far north ?

Further stupendous views were to be had on the final leg of today's walk. Which is just as well, as it took the mind off the pain of the ruck sack. It was beginning to hurt now. Legs were OK. Back and shoulders hurt. The sun was also still shining and the sky looked clear. Which was a bonus. Descending off Peel Crags, a short walk along the road took us to the YHA Once Brewed where we had decided to decamp for the night due to impending rain. The staff at the YHA deserve a mention for being extremely friendly and helpful. A quick bottle of beer [Cumberland Ale] and hot shower. Bliss. Perchance there was a pub - Twice Brewed - next door.  So called because original brewery, that was there many years ago to cater to the Navvies building the Military Road,  became greedy, started watering down it's beer, so the  navvies demanded that the beer was brewed again- hence Twice Brewed! A big bowl of mushroom pasta followed by a few pints of Yates IPA and Exp5256 replenished most of my lost energy. Thankfully the beer is not watered down now. It had been a tough and hot day. I almost fell asleep in my pasta! Scenically and Wall wise, it was by far the best day yet. This was classic Hadrian's Wall countryside and it did not disappoint.

Castle Nick Mile Castle

Steel Rig-View East

Murray & David's Northern Frontier Conquest: Day 3

Day 3: Harlow Hill- Chollaford

Weather: Sunny

Distance Walked: 12 miles

New Beers Tasted: 3

Cross Section of construction of Hadrian's Wall

A stunningly beautiful day dawned on Harlow Hill and it was time to breakfast. One of my luxuries was to carry a small cafetiere. I mean, what difference will a small cafetiere make to a 20kg pack?!  Fortified with porridge and coffee it was time to strike camp and head out along the wall again. Except for now there still wasn't much wall. What we did have was some fine examples of the mound and ditch which made up the Vallum- although there wouldn't have been trees growing in them in Roman times! By mid morning we had reached passport stamp No.2 outside the Robin Hood [too early for beer, even for me!]. Heads down and a few hours more walking, however there were further outstanding examples of the earthworks that made up the frontier defenses- it's not all about the Wall!

Vallum on Down Hill

By early afternoon, over a day and half of walking with a full 20kg pack had started to take it's toll, so it was with grateful eyes [and bellies] that the Errington Arms at The Portgate came into view. A well earned rest and  much refueling and re-hydration was needed.

Errington Arms

A reasonable value set lunch menu was on offer, with the veggie option looking tasty. I have to say that the vegetarian moussaka really was delicious. I had a thirst, so a few pints were required.  Following a good rest and a decent sampling of the Shuggy Boat Blonde , the afternoon stretch seemed less arduous [funny that!] A few teasing remnants of the Northern Frontier were visible, but you needed to use the full range of your imagination. Still, the walking was easy underfoot, even if the packs were getting heavy. Maybe I should have packed less?!

St Oswold in Lee

The landscape was  opening up,  we were walking in some nice countryside, there was some interesting local history to investigate and the sun was shining. Not all bad! One of the many small detours we made was to St Oswolds church. This little church is built on a small hill overlooking the convergence of 3 ancient route-ways and is built largely of recycled stone from Hadrian's Wall. Recycling of the wall was common in many areas and another reason there is not much left in many lowland places!  This little church is also on the site of one of the earliest 'Christian' Battles in England, when Oswald,  the Christian King of Northumbria took on [and beat] the 'Heathen' King of the British Tribes, Cadwallon in the Battle of Heavenfield in AD635.

Broad Wall becomes Narrow Wall at Planetrees

Nearing the end of our second full day walking , remnants of the wall started to become more numerous and more spectacular. At Planetrees we are presented with our largest section to date [I will be saying that a lot over the next 2 days!] , but what is significant about this section is that the base is significantly larger than the actual wall. For some reason [ time/money/energy/resources/mutiny ? ] the decision was made after the foundation had been built to make the wall less thick and a 10ft thick Wall became an 8ft Wall......

Turret 26b,  [top] Chester Bridge Abutments [centre]  Bath House of Chester Fort on opposite bank [above],
Chollaford

......and so we traipsed into Chollaford on the North Tyne, weary but excited, as the promised Roman Ruins were now coming thick and fast. There was also the most spectacular sunset and reflection of sunset in the placid waters of the North Tyne. Time to pitch tent and eat. Another little campsite, Riverside Tea Rooms & Camping, was just over the bridge and on the route of the walk.  Unfortunately the closest hostelry was the George Hotel , which was , unknown to us at the time, a rather posh establishment-and didn't serve bar meals or snacks. Good job we had a good lunch earlier, as there was nothing else around that was open and  there was no way we could afford to eat there -even if they had let us! We were begrudgingly allowed into the bar to have a drink, but I nearly had to mortgage my tent to afford even a drink and packet of crisps. Oh well. There was always porridge for breakfast. So in the bar we sat, in our walking boots, surrounded by rich pensioners, looking slightly out of place to say the least and had a few games of chess. David is very kindly attempting to bestow some of his substantial knowledge of the truly beautiful game upon me. Hard work, but he is very patient. To use a football analogy, bit like a Premier League [David] side taking on a non league [Me] side!

Sunset over North Tyne
Chollaford

Sunset over NortTyne,
Chollaford

Murray & David's Northern Frontier Conquest: Day 2

Day 2: Newcastle- Harlow Hill

Weather: Sunny

Distance Walked: 13.4

Different Beers Tasted: 2

After a quality nights sleep, it was down to the all-you -can -eat buffet breakfast. Fruit, yoghurt, 2 cooked breakfasts and 3 cups Americano with an extra espresso set me up for the day.Although I did start twitching after the 3rd cup! Before we could start our Northern Conquest, we needed camping gas. The meanies at the airline wouldn't let us take pressurised gas canisters & flammable meths on the plane, so we needed to find some in Newcastle before we set off [n.b; we did know this before hand, so didn't cause a terrorist scare at the airport!]. A quick stomp around the city centre and we found a military surplice store nearby. Mission accomplished. David had chosen this Premier Inn as it was right on the trail, so as soon as we got back, we strapped on our packs, stepped out the door and started walking.

Much like the previous day, the riverside path took us through a post industrial landscape, but unlike the previous day, it felt safer as it had been re-developed in parts and you could get a sense of the once industrial might of the North East. Roman ruins were not in evidence, but we did walk along the famous Scotswood Road, home to the historical Blaydon Races that are immortalised in a Geordie folk song [and often now sung at St James Park].  Within a few hours though we were in the Tyne River Country Park, our first real view of a green open space so far. It was also the site of a Battle of Newburn in 1640, in which the Scots defeated the English and went on to occupy Newcastle.

The Swan

A pleasant stroll along the Tyne, a brutal climb up to Heddon-on-the - Wall and we were not only at the site of a good pub, but also the first real length of Hadrian's Wall we had seen yet. First things first, we needed feeding and watering. The Swan at Heddon was a lovely pub with a good range of beers from Wylam Brewery- this time with identifiable pump badges! The only gripe I have is that they didn't do a veggie option on the Carvery. 

Heddon on the Wall
with David Twine

But we were really here for the wall [weren't we?!] So after refuelling we thought we better have a look. As far as walls go, this bit was quite exciting, being so old and that, and especially as it was our first glimpse of what was to come. Actually, to be honest, I was really quite excited about this- our first piece of Roman wall. Maybe if the English had taken more care of it they wouldn't have lost the Battle of Newburn! After posing for a few photo's, it was time to strike out to Harlow Hill.

One of the reasons there isn't much to see of this once grand frontier wall in some places is  due to the fact a road has been built on top of it. It is also why a lot of today's walk has been beside a road. This feature can be seen really clearly in the two photo's from an archaeological excavation on the road near Harlow Hill. The Military Road [as it is called] is now the B6528 and was initially built in the early 1700's to transport troops to the borders to quell the Jacobite Rebellion. Apparently the Roman engineering made for a good foundation.  It wasn't long after this that we reached the campsite at Harlow Hill. First full day of walking complete. Yay!

Military Road 

with excavations on the left

Hadrian's Wall under Military Road.
Exposed by recent excavation

Murray & David's Northern Frontier Conquest: Day 1

Hadrian's Wall

2nd - 10th September 2013

We came; We saw; We walked; We drank beer!

Day 1; Exeter - Newcastle upon Tyne

Weather; Sunny

Distance covered: 5 mile run 
Different beers tasted: 2

After years of mulling over a walk along Hadrian's Wall , months of actual planning and a few days of packing, it was time to set off to the airport with David Twine [kindly driven by Penny Twine]. Excitement turned to panic a few minutes into the journey when I realised I had forgotten  my walking boots. Fairly important piece of equipment on a walking holiday, I think you will agree! Panic over, the remainder of the drive to Exeter was fairly uneventful. Flight to Newcastle was boarded on time, but delayed slightly as men in hi-viz jackets and armed with WD-40, gaffer tape and Swiss Army knifes fixed a small engineering problem. Soon on our way, the small Fly-be twin propeller plane seemed to take off almost vertically [I'm used to more genteel take offs of larger jets] and it took several minutes for my stomach to catch up with the rest of my body. Our journey had begun. How exciting. 

Segedunum Fort, Wallsend

It was barely worth getting the guide books out before we were prepared for landing, with a swoop over Tynemouth before heading back over to Newcastle in another stomach churning maneouver . The fast, efficient  and incredibly cheap [£4.40 for Adult DaySaver ticket] Metro sped us into Newcastle city centre and we soon settled in to our swish, river side Premier Inn room. No time to enjoy the views of the Tyne and the gentrification of the quayside in the centre, as we needed to get to Wallsend and Segedunum Roman Fort for our first Roman experience. Time was running out and we didn't want to get behind schedule on our first day. The delayed flight meant we had to rush this museum, 'doing it' in under an hour before closing, but we did get our first stamp on our Hadrian's Wall Passport. The journey had begun!

King Edward's Bay,
Tynemouth

Now it was time to get off to the seaside. We had decided that as we were so close to the coast, we would make our walk a 'coast to coast', as well as Hadrian's Wall.  Neither of us had been to Tynemouth and so didn't have any preconceptions - we were very pleasantly surprised with what we found. A well kept seaside town with a thriving cafe/ bar culture and sandy beaches. After a sedate paddle on the West Coast, on a hot sunny day, after a long journey, there was really only one sensible thing to do - go to the pub. Of all the pubs and bars on Front Street we walked into one that was not the most salubrious, The Salutation- but when we found out Monday's was £2 pint, we stayed. Actually, it wasn't too bad and the beer was nice, local golden ale from Wylam Brewery. Not sure which one as the pump badge was hand written and the bartender didn't know- but it looked and tasted OK! 

A Sign!

Suitably refreshed by the ale, a paddle in North Sea and the fresh sea air in our lungs, we set off back to Wallsend to start the walk proper;except David had had the bright idea of running this section. Out of our day packs came the running gear, and off we went. The first part of the Hadrian's Walk National Trail along the not very Roman post industrial landscape of the River Tyne, Newcastle was completed in full BATs colours. 

BAT on the Tyne

The run was just what was needed after the travelling, it was a good idea by David, as there was zero Roman stuff to see.  In fact, apart from the decaying riverside remnants, of a once industrialised landscape, and groups of kids, being, well, kids, there was little reason to hang around. There have been reports of these youths harassing walkers and whilst I'm not easily scared- I was quite glad I was running! If anyone else is thinking of doing Hadrian's Walk, unless you are a purist, there is no reason to walk the section from Wallsend- Newcastle. There is a perfectly good Metro system.

Four miles down; 80 miles to go.

Showered and invigorated after the run, we hit the town. We settled on that traditional (!) Geordie fare of pie&liquor at the The Red House. It was just around the corner from the hotel, was in an old building, had some tasty veggie pies and served a fine selection of ales. I was particularly taken with the Grin 'n' Bare it from the Anarchy Brewery.

Tuesday was a particularly special day as it was our first full day of walking, so an early night was called for.